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jo-shaneflorence18 · 5 years ago

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Cinque Terre (or Quattro Terre for us)

10/05/2018: We left before six this morning as we had a lot to do. It was good to get around early as there were none of us around, that is, tourists. The streets were empty save the vacuum trucks brooming off and washing the pavement of any trace of last night's hordes and their disarray.

The dawn clean up. Preparing for another day of onslaught

Macca's for breakfast and a two hour train trip to the five medieval fishing villages of Cinque Terre and our first opportunity for a swim, in clean water that is. After a brisk walk to the station rather than taxis, we caught the eight past seven regional train from Santa Maria Novella to Firenze Campo di Marte for the seven thirty six through train to eventually, Naples. We would get off at La Spezia Centrale, wait for a quarter of an hour and then board a suburban train for the twenty odd minute trip to the most northern of the five towns, Monterosso Al Mare.

Good start to the day

Waiting at Firenze Campo di Marte for the next train to Napoli

Monterosso Station was, as expected, right on the water. It also sat between the new part of town to the west and facing the sea from the thirteenth century old town, situated beyond the rocky headland and facing the safe harbour, albeit separated by the ugly railway overpass that allowed us to get there.

We walked off the platform and were immediately confronted with Rocky the dog, sitting on his blanket with a sign begging for money so he could presumably seek treatment for his ailments, cataracts, cancer and arthrosis. We gave him a glance, descended the stairs to the street below and crossed via Fegina to be welcomed by a beautiful view of the Ligurian Sea. The first time that we had seen it for a few years. Crossing the single lane road was a simple process as with a zebra crossing and not much traffic to contend with, we stepped straight onto the narrow paved viewing platform, bounded on each end by a curved ramp that allowed us to access the sand below.

Rocky the dog

The next twenty minutes were very therapeutic. Once on the beach the small pebbles and coarse grains of sand both massaged and cut into our feet. It felt a little painful but seemed good for the soul, or soles, as we walked. Working our way towards the headland and the large rock formation that dominated the landscape towards the end, the deck chairs and umbrellas were making an appearance with ropes delineating sections of beach that were being progressively cordoned off. To the east, the beach dude was well on top of setting up. Banana chairs out and umbrellas not far behind. The dude at the other end of the beach was dragging the chain. Maybe it was the same dude and he hadn't got around to it. Maybe not.

The water was clear and turquoise and looked inviting. We were soft though and although to swim was one of our aims for the day, after we dipped our feet into the water, as much as it was enjoyable, it was a bit too fresh. We gave a dip in the Mediterranean Sea a miss and stuck to the shore line, venturing in to our knees as we strolled towards Aurora Tower.

Old mate setting up for the day. Clouds and all

This guy must have had a day off

Lo Scoglio di Monterosso. You need to pay for this beach at times

Not far beyond Lo Scoglio di Monterosso there was a bit more sand but it quickly turned to boulders that formed the point where Aurora Tower stood. We back tracked a bit and found the roadway above. We had walked as far as possible and had only done so due to the time of year. In peak season the beach is blocked off, umbrellas and beach lounges erected and change rooms and lock ups made available. All at a cost. Twenty five to thirty euros for the day. More if you want the front row.

The tower was built by the Genovese during the fifteen hundreds, forming part of a defensive cordon to ward off pirates. Once located at the edge of town, the tower and the castle ruins delineate the old town of Monterosso and the Fegina. At the foot of the tower, the road entered a tunnel cut through the rock while the pedestrian path kept to the coast, allowing people to enjoy the view. Jo and Cec took the tunnel, the gents took the path.

Looking towards the tunnel to Monterosso Vecchio. Aurora Tower in the background

Another private beach around the point at Monterosso Vecchio. €25 a day

Meeting at the tunnels end, we wandered down what was still via Fegina, under the railway and into a small but interesting market selling homewares more than anything. Handy stuff for the kitchen. Coffee pots, saucepans, utensils and the like. Nothing there for us but. We were looking for a rest and a drink which we found along with the many souvenir shops that lined the caruggi. A quick look around and off to the ferry wharf.

A rest for the nanas, Facebook time

We knew which boat that we wanted and it had pulled in but with still a distance to cover before we were actually there, some urgency was required as we had yet to purchase tickets. The queue at the ticket seller only increased our anxiety but thinking that we would miss out was in the end unfounded as there were plenty queueing to get on after those on board disembarked. It ended up being a descent wait rather than running late. By eleven thirty we had boarded the ferry to Vernazza and were on our way.

Goodbye Monterosso

Hello Vernazza

As we approached Vernazza, we were greeted by the best view available. Clusters of houses clutching the cliffs, the fourteenth century church on the harbour and the town's defences including the castle and two watch towers, built hundreds of years earlier, all in perspective. The seas were a little rough but disembarking the ferry was a safe and simple process. Under the gaze of Castello Doria and its Belforte Tower, we braved the gang plank and moved around the concrete break water that protected the harbour. A lovely sight, people soaking up the sun when the opportunity arose, fishermen tending to their boats and many hundreds of tourists moving back and forth from the breakwater to the main street. All to a backdrop of Ligurian houses painted hues of rosé and saffron fornenting the timeworn Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia, and all alee the rich green of the hills behind.

Old mate tieing up his boat. Chiesa di Santa Margherita di Antiochia to the left, via Visconti ahead

We were only here for a while though, a quick look around. It was after mid day and time for a feed. A lap of via Visconti and via Roma allowed us to make a call. Back to near the harbour, to a corner restaurant that we had frequented with the kids last time we were there, Pizzeria Lercari Ercole. It drew our attention with the pizza oven near the front window where could watch the cook place pizzas and bread into the wood fired oven. Initially we sat under the umbrellas at the front but were offered seating at the rear of the premises after speaking to the waitress. A lot more secluded. We were initially the only ones out there but it soon changed and before long the small courtyard was full. Good ploy to keep the tables out front empty so passers by got the impression that there was plenty of room. This was a good meal, good pasta for some but more importantly, some delicious mussels for Beau. He did enjoy them as well as the Birra Moretti.

Looking for a feed. The cave leading to Vernazza Beach was cordoned off

Mussels for lunch, good choice

Soon after lunch the move to the next town was on. Heading up to the train station and too lazy to climb the paths to Corniglia, the next stop would be Manarola Station. There was a considerable crowd, on the train and on the platforms. So much so that when we arrived at Manarola Station, it took a long time to get to the tunnel entrance that linked the platforms to the town. Just as many people were trying to access the platforms from the tunnel as were trying to access the tunnel from the platforms. The stairs under the tracks travelling south were a particular pinch point, causing gridlock. Upon exiting the tunnel we headed down hill, up the ramp that took us past a small square full of kids playing football, down the ramp on the other side and into via Renato Birolli to the water. After surveying the shore from the platform above the water, we walked up the path towards the scenic viewpoint on the northern headland and overlooked the rocky outcrops that partially protected the town from the sea and sunbaking area and launch pad for those game enough to jump in for a swim. Given the number of boats in the streets and along the rocky cliffs above the shoreline, one would be forgiven for thinking that Manarola was a fishing village, similar to those we just visited. Most of the boats were for show though. Manarola is traditionally an olive growing and wine producing area.

Swimmers and others relaxing in the sun

Extending our walk around to see if the Lovers Walk was open, as it was closed several years earlier due to landslides, we were disappointed to find that it was still closed and the track in disrepair. On our return we scaled the steep steps that led us to the picnic area above Nessun Dorma restaurant and another set to Cimitero di Manarola, returning back down to Cec and eventually the shops at the tunnel entrance. This is where we left her again to walk up the hill to the church.

Looking back at Manarola across the top of the sun shades at the restaurant

With Cecilia doing her own thing, the rest of us commenced the ten minute walk up the via Antonio Discovolo incline to an area that Jo had visited by herself last time we were there and recommended the view from above. The road followed the creek closely all the way until the last steep climb to the right, where the road passed over. This was the introduction to a small open area bounded by a church and bell tower on opposite sides. Piazzale Papa Innocenzo IV was dedicated to the Pope, a local character called Sinibaldo Fieschi who lived from 1195 until 1254 and was pope from 1243 until his death from pleurisy whilst still in office. The locals may have been clutching at straws a bit as records were not the best so he could have been born during any number of years and in several places. Good story though. To our right was the view back down the valley and over the township, dominated by a large bell tower which at some stage doubled as a watch tower when the town was under threat from Saracen pirate raids.

POPE INNOCENT IV SQUARE

A TRADITION THAT WAS BORN

IN MANAROLA IN THE ROLANDA HOUSE

To our left was Chiesa di San Lorenzo, built in the thirteen hundreds after a bit of a population boom due to increased activity in the area. Apart from the impressive rose window above the front door, the church had a triptych hanging on the back wall from a similar period.

Looking inside Chiesa di San Lorenzo with the triptych representing Madonna with the Child and Saints at the back of the alter

The hills above Chiesa di San Lorenzo full of day trippers with energy to burn

Our next step was to leave the town and head to our final destination, Riomaggiore. We were going by ferry again so needed to get back down to the bottom of the town and manoeuvre the steps and pathway which led us along the waterfront, past the marble breakwater, through the slit in the granite cliff and to the boarding area. Having not referred to a timetable, we were there with plenty of time to spare and mostly alone. The weather was still fickle with sunscreen being applied by passers by when we arrived to showers by the time the ferry had arrived. It was just after three and a half an hour wait was ahead of us.

Sunscreen one minute, umbrellas the next

In transit to Riomaggiore

By four we were on land again and the sun was out. Just around the rocks from Spiagga del Paese, we climbed the stair and battled the crowds as we made our way towards the main street. Riomaggiore may have been the last to visit but it was certainly the most dramatic. Looking like it hadn't been touched for years, the steepness of the streetscape and height of buildings certainly cast a shadow over the narrow and congested main street. This town had a small harbour that was user friendly when compared with Manarola shown by the number of boats in the street and the fact that some could be hired.

The town's steep streetscape. An impressive welcoming view

It was getting on in the day and we had had enough. Wandering up via Columbo and looking for a sit down, we came across Costeve', a restaurant serving pretty well everything, including wine. Some had a drink, some didn't but before too long we were looking in the shops and working our way to the station to prepare for the train journey back to Florence. Paying particular attention to the correct platform. We needed to travel towards Pisa, not Genoa.

Too much action for one day

A couple of hours on the train allowed us to recharge our batteries before the walk from Santa Maria Novella back to the apartment. From there it was a midnight game of Trivial Pursuit and bed.

Not too many arguments tonight. It was too late

Tomorrow the Accademia & Uffizi.

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